As early as the Spring and Autumn Period, more than 3,000 years
ago, Shandong was territory of Qi and Lu. Both states were
economically and culturally developed. Because they bordered the
sea, and had mountains and fertile plains, they had abundant
aquatic products and grains as well as sea salt. The people of the
area have stressed seasonings and flavorings since ancient times.
Shandong cuisine was created during the Yuan Dynasty. It gradually
spread to north China, Beijing, Tianjin, northeast China, and the
palace where it influenced the imperial food. The Shandong cuisine
comprises mainly eastern Shandong and Jinan dishes.
The most typical Jinan dishes are sea cucumber with mat balls;
braised shark's fin with shredded chicken; sea cucumber, mushroom,
and bamboo shoots; clam in egg white; and fried oysters. Jinan
cuisine is known for its soups, quick frying, stir frying, deep
frying, and stewing. The most common raw materials are river fish,
pork, and vegetables. Some typical dishes are carp in milk soup,
Yellow River carp in sweet and sour sauce, stewed pork leg, and
quick fried double crisps.
Shandong cuisine is characterized by quick frying, stir- frying,
braising, and deep fat frying. Its dishes are crisp, tender,
delicious, and greasy with salty and some sweet and sour flavors.
Its main condiment is salt, but it also uses salted fermented
soybeans and soy sauce.
People in Shandong like to eat onions and use onions as a
seasoning. The dishes include braised sea cucumber with onion,
cartilage stewed with onions, and meat stewed with onions. Roast
meats are also served with onions. The onions are first deep fat
fried before the dishes are quick fried, stir fried, stewed, or
sauted so they absorb the onion flavor. People in Shandong also
like foods made of wheat flour, such as steamed buns, baked buns,
pancakes, crisp cakes, and big cakes stuffed with minced meats.
Huai-Yang Cuisine. This cuisine includes dishes from Huai'an,
Yangzhou, Suzhou, Hangzhou, and Shanghai. Huai-Yang refers to the
cities of Yangzhou, Zhenjiang, and Huai'an in Jiangsu Province
along the Grand Canal north of the Yangtze River. Yangzhou was a
military fort and a cultural center in ancient times. It was a very
busy city as early as the Tang Dynasty, and was the most
flourishing commercial city in China after the capital city.
Extravagant consumption by rich, important businessmen stimulated
the thriving catering trade and the development of cookery.
Every important salt trader employed a skilled cook who specialized
in cooking certain delicious dishes or desserts. When a salt trader
gave a dinner, he often borrowed cooks from other salt traders, and
when every cook prepared his specialty, a lavish dinner was ready.
In this way, the cooks exchanged their cooking skills and improved
the cooking in Yangzhou.
Yangzhou, located in a region crisscrossed by rivers and lakes, has
abundant fish, shrimp, and seafood, which are used in the local
cooking, The city's catering trade flourished during the Yuan,
Ming, and Qing dynasties. There were also cooks who sold their
cooking skills as "external cooks" at festivals, banquets, and
weddings. Their different services were evidence of the fierce
competition among them, which helped develop the cooking skills in
Yangzhou.
If
Shandong cuisine is characterized by stirring and frying over a hot
fire, Huai-Yang cuisine is characterized by stewing, braising, and
steaming over a low fire for a long time. Famous dishes cooked this
way are chicken braised with chestnuts, pork steamed in lotus leaf,
duck stewed with eight treasures, pork meat balls Yangzhou style,
and butterfly sea cucumber (sea cucumber cut into butterfly shapes
and cooked with flavorings).
Yangzhou dishes stress the stock and extract, and require chicken
to taste like chicken and fish to taste like fish, with clear
distinctions between the primary and secondary ingredients. The
dishes are cooked over a low fire and the pots are covered or
sealed so the marrow cooks out and the primary taste and form are
kept. These traits stock fresh and delicious (this is the main
difference between stewing and braising). Stewed dishes are tender,
fragrant, and tasty.
Stewing without water in the pot is one stewing method. It is done
this way: Put the cleaned meat (preferably a whole chicken or duck)
in a sealed vessel and immerse the vessel in boiling water for
several hours. Boiling food in its own juice without soy sauce was
begun in the Yangzhou cuisine and has since influenced the Beijing
cuisine. Yangzhou dishes, which are slightly sweet, are often
flavored with both sugar and salt. Sugar makes the dish more
delicious and tasty. The Yangzhou cuisine also stresses colors,
such as the colors of red sugar, soy sauce, the raw materials, and
egg white. Dragon hidden in snow is a good example. The major
ingredient is quick fried eel shreds. Steamed egg white is used as
the base color, and when the shining, black and yellow, quick
fried, shredded eel is placed on the white, it looks like a dragon
lying on snow. Other dishes, such as chicken boiled in its own soup
without soy sauce, roast Mandarin fish, steamed hilsa herring, and
steamed shrimp dumplings look sparkling, lustrous and
attractive.
Crystallized dishes made in Zhenjiang are sparkling, transparent,
tender, and delicious. They are known for their color, form, and
taste. Huai-Yang cuisine also pays attention to color and taste. If
a dish is heavy and brightly colored, its taste must be heavy and
its soup must be thick. If a dish is simple and light colored, its
taste must be light and its soup must be clear.
The vegetarian banquet is a special feature of the Huai-Yang
cuisine, and the vegetarian dishes in the Beijing cuisine are
mostly variants of the Huai Yang cuisine. This is not true for the
vegetarian foods of the other cuisines, The Huai-Yang snacks and
refreshments are exquisite, such as boiled, shredded, dried bean
curd; steamed dumplings with minced meat and gravy; steamed meat
dumplings with the dough gathered at eh top; steamed stuffed meat
buns; steamed buns filled with meat, bamboo shoots and vegetables;
Huangqiao baked sesame cakes; multi-layer cake; boneless fish and
noodles; quick- fried eel and noodles; noodles with seasoned
topping; and steamed crystal buns from Zhenjiang.