The Manchu and Han banquet was introduced during Emperor Kangxi's
reign at the government house and official residence of the upper
strata. The Manchu and Han banquet derived from changes in the
eating and drinking customs of the Manchus before and after the
Manchu rulers moved to Beijing. Before they moved, the banquet had
been called the "steamed bun banquet." It was cooked simply and
there was little variety in the food served. Most dishes were made
of wheat flour and served in large quantities, as was typical of
the dietetic customs of the nomadic people.
By
the middle Qing Dynasty, the eating habits of the Manchus had been
greatly influenced by the eating customs and cooking skills of
other nationalities, especially the Han Chinese. For example, in
the 53rd year of Kangxi's reign (1714), he gave a "1,000 Elders'
Banquet" at the palace to celebrate his 60th birthday and the
peaceful times under his rule. Actually, he gave the banquet on
March 25th and 27th to honor all the elders in the country who were
65 years or older. The Manchu and Han banquet was attended by more
than 2,800 people. The emperor dined with his guests and, in a
joyful mood, wrote the four big characters, "Man Han Quan Xi"
(meaning the Manchu and Han banquet), thus establishing the rare
banquet's place in Chinese dietetic culture.
The banquet featured many of the world's edible delicacies from
land and sea, famous mushrooms and fungi, and choice vegetables and
fruits. Quality was the key selection criteria, and only the best
were chosen. For example, the bear's paw had to be the front paw of
the black bear in autumn because then it had short sides and much
gelatinous protein. Because the black bear has plenty of food to
eat, its paws are strong and fat. The paw is delicious when cooked
and contains many nutrients. Another example is the preparation of
roast pigs. The pigs must weigh 12 to 13 catties and have been
fattened with porridge for three to four days before being
slaughtered so they would be more tasty. Moreover, Peking duck,
roast chicken, and harba (pork leg) were requisite banquet
dishes.
The Manchu and Han banquet became popular during the late years of
the Qing Dynasty. Many restaurants throughout the country served
the banquet to attract customers, but the variety, quantity, and
quality of the dishes differed by region to accommodate the
preferences of the local people. For example, in Guangzhou, a
representative city of southern China, the dragon tiger phoenix
mixture was often served. The dragon was snake, the tiger was cat,
and the phoenix was chicken. The dish was prepared from 250 grams
of three varieties of snake meat, 150 grams of cat or civet meat,
100 grams of shredded chicken, and 50 grams of fish maw. The minor
ingredients were shredded mushrooms, shredded fungi, lard, sesame
oil, dried tangerine peels, refined salt, Shaoxing rice wine,
liquor, starch, crisp fritter, white chrysanthemum flowers, and
lemon squash.
In
the ancient capital city of Xi'an, the dumpling banquet was well
known to locals and foreign tourists. The small dumplings, made in
various shapes, were stuffed with such fillings as meat, shrimp,
dried scallop, dried shrimp, sesame paste, and mushrooms. Each had
a fancy name. For example, the dumpling of black and white fungi
was called "white silver and black jade"; the dumpling with a
cherry on top was called "lone fragrant flower in bloom."
In
north China, the Manchu and Han banquet included a hot pot or
instant boiled mutton, while in northeast China it included stewed
beef or mutton or roast sheep. In Sichuan, the banquet included
shredded pork stir fried with chili and fish sauce, and stir-fried
diced chicken with peanuts. In Shanxi, Pingyao beef was served at
the banquet.
In
short, the Manchu and Han banquet varied by region because of
different cooking skills, the discovery of new delicacies, and
people's regional preferences. However, the style and flavor
remained the same, and the luxurious Manchu and Han banquet
followed a set etiquette, procedure, and pattern. There were strict
rules for the location, number of tables, ranks and positions of
those invited, seating, and variety and quantity of the dishes,
fruits, and alcoholic drinks. All officials had to wear their
official robes and string of 108 beads typically made of coral or
amber. Music was played, and a gun salute was fired as the guests
took their seats.
After the guests were seated, they used copper basins and clean
towels to wash their faces before drinking tea and eating the
exquisite dishes. As they ate and drank, they also played chess,
recited poetry, painted, or chatted. After the tables were set, the
four fruits (oranges, mandarin oranges, shaddock, and apples) as
well as pumpkin seeds, almonds, dried litchis, and sugared lotus
seeds were served. The four fruits were also used for
decoration.
Dinnerware was placed at each seat. After the guests were seated,
waiters peeled fruit for them and served cold dishes to begin the
wine drinking. This was followed by four hot courses. After three
rounds of drinks, shark's fin was served followed by the second
course a hot dish of meats, then the third and fourth courses. The
guests ate and drank as much as they could. The fifth course was
cooked rice, porridge, and soup. After the dinner, waiters served a
small silver tray of toothpicks, areca (betel nut), and round
cardamom kernels. To end the banquet, the guests were given a basin
of clean water for washing.
The Manchu and Han banquet became very popular during Xianfeng's
reign. After Emperor Xianfeng died, Empress Dowager Cixi ordered
that the name, Manchu and Han banquet, not be used outside the
palace. Later, Emperor Guangxu issued an order that princes, dukes,
and generals could serve the Manchu and Han banquet, which cause it
to rebound in Tianjin and other cities.
Following the 1911 Revolution, the Manchu and Han banquet became
fashionable in more cities, but the content, etiquette, customs,
and formalities gradually were simplified, and the number of dishes
reduced from more than 200 to about 100. Archived menus show
different banquets served 110 dishes, 108 dishes, and 64 dishes.
There no longer was any clear distinction between Manchu and Han
dishes, so the banquet became known as "the great Han banquet" in
Hong Kong and Guangzhou.
After the Republic of China was founded in 1911, the Manchu and Han
banquets were stopped because of wars among the warlords and the
poverty of the people. The flourishing tourist trade of recent
years has caused a new revival of the banquets.