纽约人“老金”的“煎饼大业”

Comment(s)打印 E-mail 新华网  2017-04-26

Jianbing of Mr. Bing attracts New Yorkers

4月20日,在美国纽约中城的范德比尔特美食集市,老金在店里制作煎饼。[新华社 王迎 摄]
Brian Goldberg makes Jianbing at the kiosk of Mr. Bing in UrbanSpace food court in New York, the United States, April 20, 2017. (Xinhua/Wang Ying)


纽约中城的范德比尔特美食集市是周边上班族午饭时间的好去处。最近,入口处一家有中文招牌的摊位前排起了长队。这家卖的是一种在美国略显“非主流”,但在中国却家喻户晓的食品——煎饼。

UrbanSpace in midtown New York is a place white-collars come for lunch during their workdays. For the past a few months, customers have always lined up before a kiosk under a banner with Chinese characters. What this kiosk sells is a very authentic Chinese food in north China -- Jianbing, or the Chinese crepe.

“老金煎饼”的老板名叫布赖恩·戈德堡,中文名叫金伯亮,大家都称呼他老金,是个土生土长的纽约人。老金出生于1977年,最早在美国波士顿大学学习中文,后来在中国留学时被煎饼深深吸引。多年之后,曾做过职业运动员并在媒体、金融业从业的他,下定决心开店卖煎饼。

The kiosk is branded "Mr. Bing", and is owned by Brian Goldberg, who is born and raised in New York. Goldberg is very involved with Chinese culture: he was a Chinese major back in college in Boston, and studied in China 20 years ago.

“我在中国时特别喜欢吃煎饼。煎饼又热乎又新鲜,而且可以自主选择,想怎么吃就怎么吃。但是回到美国之后就吃不到了。”老金说道,“如果你想要一样东西,但又得不到,那怎么办呢?当然要自己动手,丰衣足食!”

"When I went to China, I just love Jianbing so much, it tastes so good, the texture is so good, it is hot, it's fresh, it's customizable, they make it how you like it. When I come back to America, you can't find it. So if you like something and you can't get it, what you do? You make it!" said Goldberg.

老金开煎饼店的想法早在2001年在哥伦比亚大学读商科时就萌生了。当时的课程要求撰写一个商业企划书,他完成的题目就是“戈德堡的中式可丽饼”。他当时有想法、有企划,但是由于资金不足,计划无法实施。直到五年前,他的“煎饼事业”才在香港起步。

Goldberg's Jianbing plan is not a whim. It was the theme of his business plan when he was a MBA in Columbia University, Goldberg's Chinese Crepe. As a student, though he didn't have enough funds to proceed. It was until five years ago that he made the first step in Hong Kong.

决定开煎饼铺之后,老金用了几个月的时间探访了北京、天津、山东的煎饼摊儿,吃了不计其数的煎饼。最终,他在北京找到了学艺的煎饼铺——小闫煎饼。小闫煎饼的班师傅不仅教老金做煎饼,还去香港给他的员工传艺。两年前,老金搬回纽约后,他先在纽约不同的地方开快闪店,看大家的反应。煎饼受到了当地人的欢迎后,老金决定回到老家纽约,一心一意经营“老金煎饼”。

To open the Hong Kong shop, Goldberg spent many weekends flying back and forth from Beijing, Tianjin, and Shandong Province, the origins of Chinese Jianbing. After tasting tons, he fixated on one kiosk in Beijing, Xiaoyan Jianbing, whose chef offered to teach him and his Hong Kong employees the recipe. In Hong Kong, Mr. Bing was a blast, but Goldberg always thought of going back home. Two years ago, he moved back to New York and put himself into his Jianbing shop, opening pop-ups across New York to see how customers like it.

卖给纽约人的煎饼,跟传统的中国煎饼不完全一样。老金根据美国人的口味,对煎饼配料进行了改良:用海鲜酱替换腐乳,炸馄饨皮替换油条,还提供了蔬菜和多种口味的肉供顾客选择。老金说,美国人不喜欢吃过多的面食,喜欢吃肉。经过大量试验后,老金锁定了烤鸭、醉鸡等几种口味。如今最热销的就是烤鸭味和原味煎饼。

Selling Jianbing to New Yorkers is surely not the same with selling them to Chinese. To cater to the taste of Americans, Goldberg applied several changes to the recipe after trial and errors. The Jianbing as you see today at Mr. Bing's is a revised version: fried wonton skin is used to replace dough stick, and a signature Chinese spicy source instead of fermented bean curd, and there is meat, which Americans love. According to Goldberg, the best-selling flavors are Peking duck and the original.

除了中城美食广场的店铺,老金在下城切尔西区和熨斗大厦附近的店铺也正在紧锣密鼓装修。现在,老金煎饼一天能卖几百套。老金说,寿司、墨西哥卷对美国人也曾经很陌生,可现在吃得津津有味,所以他有信心把煎饼生意做得更大。

Apart from the UrbanSpace kiosk, Goldberg is also planning on opening another two, in Chelsea and Flatiron separately. Even with one storefront, Goldberg is selling hundreds of Jianbing each day. He is confident this Chinese snack can be something, "Anyway, Americans didn't know much about sushi or burritos back twenty years," Goldberg said, "And they are having them all the time." The great goal of Goldberg is bringing Jianbing to the world and establishing his own signature brand with Mr. Bing.

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