Down at ground level things can be busy too. Busloads of tourists snap photos of the tree where the last Ming Dynasty emperor and his eunuch hung themselves to avoid execution by the approaching Shun army.

But this park is also beloved by many as a gathering spot for community performances. Particularly on weekend mornings, slightly older people come out to recite kuai ban, sing, and play music to appreciative crowds. It's not touristy at all, but it's definitely something that guests of Beijing should see.

In many western countries, the elderly are almost invisible. In Beijing they happily throw themselves into the spotlight. Even after a spectacular sunset, the festivities continue. The nighttime crowd moves in, pulling sound systems of varying quality. Folks gather into the gang of their choice, ballroom dancing or busting out the choreography to early '90s techno.

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