Meeting with the ancients

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Dinner time is busiest in North Street, with its red lanterns and the road a little sticky with accumulated grease.

Food stalls selling barbecue, hotpots, malatang (a Sichuan cuisine with boiled meat and veg in spices) and local snacks are packed with diners. Sardined in the crowd, I had to shove myself through to place an order, then force my way out, holding my barbecue goodies up high.

If you get a chance, share a table with the locals and have a casual chat with a couple bottles of beer. Luoyang's old town is where one can fully understand the Chinese philosophy that "food is the utmost necessity of the people," and where outsiders are no longer lost, but finally let in.

If you go

Luoyang Yijia International Youth Hostel:

Nestled in the city's old town area, the hostel is an ideal spot for backpackers and budget tourists. Yijia provides basic and clean accommodation and a chance to make new friends and join up with fellow travelers for your trips. A transport hub with buses to major scenic spots and railway station is within walking distance, as well as Luoyang's popular snack street opposites Youth Palace. (329 Zhongzhou Rd E.)

Luoyang Dongshan Hotel:

Sitting halfway up East Xiangshan Mountain in the Longmen Grottoes scenic area, this five-star state hotel is sited in a Suzhou-style classical garden, with tranquil scenery and springs. The teahouse in Building No. 5 is a laidback spot with a panoramic view of the Longmen Grottoes on the West Longmen Mountain, across the Yihe River.

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