A Return to Retro

By Elsbeth van Paridon
0 Comment(s)Print E-mail China.org.cn, December 24, 2012
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At the risk of tackling a re-hashed retro topic here, I've decided to take a break from design and go back in time (wardrobe-wise of course, no need to dwell on the past). The heart of Beijing's sprouting vintage scene beats, as far as I know, especially loud on the upper side of subway line 2-stretching from (my) residential Andingmen to the touristic Nanluoguxiang shopping district. Especially ever up-and coming Wudaoying hutong has been weighing in its two cents on the second-hand clothing industry. Don't forget to check your western concept of scouring the Amsterdam flea markets, London vintage shops or Antwerp's second-hand design boutiques at the door. In a nation where some deem a building constructed in the 1980s to be, and I quote this from a conversation between my good British friend surnamed Monk and a true Beijinger, "extremely old or ancient (古代的)," they may not always place much stock in vintage items.

Beijing vintage, much like its real estate, comes at a price (just skip your lunch or dinner at one of Wudaoying's restaurants altogether and have a glass of wine instead I'd say). Though this may sound as bad news to some, things aren't falling apart at the seams just yet. At some of these small shops, such as staple venue Old News, you'll get value for money (I am Dutch after all. We're notoriously stingy when it comes to money). That's good news.

To the left and in the middle (copyright@Coquette): An ode to Helena Christensen, super- bohemian flâneuse.

To the right: Posing as the face of Prada's 1990 Fall Collection.

Retro

I think it was in the 1990s when Danish-born supermodel Helena Christensen, my favorite out of the whole ‘90s supermodel-era bunch, really began to popularize (or publicize) the second-hand style. Never a ‘messy' fringe hair out of place, Christensen always managed (and still manages) to channel the definition of that effervescent cool look by wearing, or playfully yet mindfully throwing together, unique styles which combine(d) designer edgy with flea market bohemian.

From London's cuckoo Camden market to Amsterdam's narrow Eight Streets area, mode addicts have managed to find ways to the ultimate hidden treasures stuffed in huge clothing baskets for years and years (decades actually). Pulling out that one gem you've been looking for all day (or month) or roaming the streets, more often than not located in the more arty districts of the city, and relentlessly entering/exiting shop after shop to finally stumble upon that perfect, for example, 1980s leather jacket (which everyone should own at least one of by the way) or that original pair of 1950s leather gloves that compliment all of your winter coats (which you're currently all using as Beijing temperatures are set to go down to -13 during the day soon), can make your day (or week or winter- to be honest).

Paired with this so-called thrill of the chase during which you might spot some undiscovered boutique or belt or bracelet, second-hand items can lift any outfit to that next Helena level. Getting retro is basically a (for many cheaper) way of not having to re-hash your ensemble time and time again (or twice).

To the left: A look down Wudaoying after dark. Copyright@Frontpsych.com

To the right: The Old News boutique always bears good news for your wardrobe. Copyright@TheBeijinger (after expansion they forgot to put up the shop sign.)

Revival

When you update your look by going back in time, you need a shop owner who knows what they're doing. Hence the good news that Old News brings. In addition to having studied fashion business and marketing abroad, owner Yi Chi purchases her items in France and then ships them off to her recently expanded Wudaoying boutique. Everything from antique watches, pearl necklaces, belts, clutches, satchels, flap caps and wide-brimmed hats, to prim 'n proper preppy blouses to 3/4 length lace dresses; Old News has them on the racks. Decorated like a 1930s living room, with its dark wooden floors and green velvet ‘Scarlett o'Hara dress' curtains ("Gone with the Wind" anyone?), the store itself exudes a tranquil, rustic air and flair which soothes the shopper's mind (or her distress of trying to get that holiday-tastic Christmas outfit last minute).

In addition to the shop's French-acquired items, you can have certain designs tailor-made nowadays, samples of which are on display, and include mostly 1950s style dresses and skirts. Beware though! Not everything in the store is on sale (especially ask before getting your heart set on certain hats and watches; I know all too well what that feeling of sheer disappointment can do to you… sigh). The blouses and belts are usually very reasonably (western ‘vintagely' I guess) priced at 120 to 200RMB. The assortment of bags, going from 550RMB for clutches and upwards, and simple tuxedo, cropped or oversized boyish jackets, ranging anywhere between 400 and 1000RMB, are already on the higher end of the second-hand spectrum (yes, I'm applying my western POV here). Having said that, Old News gives you your money's worth.

Return

Wudaoying features a nice collection of vintage boutiques, yet, unlike the case with Old News, most of them I can't say that I always understand why they refer to themselves as vintage shops (not that that has ever stopped me form purchasing any item I liked there). The price-quality is not always up to par, to say the least, and sometimes you'd be better off getting an entirely new first-hand outfit- but then of course you would risk losing the unique allure of that second-hand item (dilemma dilemma!). If you need some time to decide, go have that glass of wine at new wine (tasting) bar 9+, The Yard or good old Vineyard. And after all is said and worn, in the end you can turn to retro, but you can also return it. That's the good news.

Fashionistas United:

Never re-think your (Christmas) outfits too much. Just go Helena with it.

 

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