They withdrew from the center stage that was Beijing, morphed into "crouching tigers and hidden dragons" in Tianjin, and bided their time for a chance to return. The last emperor Puyi lived in the Japanese concession from 1924 to 1931 and was divorced by his concubine, an unprecedented blow to his imperial honor.

It was also in this city that Peking Opera stars found their fame. As the old saying went: Learn the trade in Beijing, gain fame in Tianjin and make money in Shanghai.

Nowadays, Tianjin is the cradle of crosstalk, the Chinese equivalent of stand-up comedy. Ma Sanli, with his dialect-heavy delivery, had a strong influence on a generation of Chinese comedians. Guo Degang, the reigning king of crosstalk, has re-established his hometown as the spring for this kind of Chinese humor.

Tianjiners are widely believed to be acerbic and witty. Having a "Tianjin mouth" is tantamount to possessing a certain eloquence, somewhat similar to David Letterman's humor.

Tianjin is more laidback than other Chinese metropolises. Some call it "lagging behind", citing the slower pace of ultra-urbanization; others deem it a way of preserving the old lifestyle with its quirky humor, distinct dialect and folksy sensibilities.

Like it or not, Tianjin is on the march. Whole streets are being renovated. New buildings - in the old colonial style nonetheless - are being erected along the Haihe River. Most importantly, a high-speed rail line opened last year between Beijing South Railway Station and downtown Tianjin. The journey takes just 30 minutes and trains depart every 15 minutes, essentially turning Tianjin into a Beijing suburb.

Since 2003 when the Beijing-Tianjin integration plan came into being, Tianjiners have come to realize that they don't have to see the city next door as a rival, but as a neighbor whose halo will spread endless light. As San Jose is to San Francisco, or Shenzhen is to Hong Kong, Tianjin has found its unique position that allows it to flourish in its own right.

(China Daily August 6, 2009)