For all its amazing modern skyline, perhaps the real jewels of Shanghai can be found at street level, away from the hustle and bustle in the captivating back alleys.

One of the most charming things to do in Shanghai is to explore the backstreets, either on foot or by bike. The narrow lanes behind the main streets offer a unique glimpse into local life.

Featuring both post-1949 buildings and early last century architecture that mixes Chinese and Western styles, these alleyway communities have housed generations of ordinary lives.

As autumn draws to a close, now is the perfect time to investigate.

Old Town

The area has the oldest type of alleyways you'll find in Shanghai. The small area around Yuyuan Garden existed before foreigners arrived in the mid-1800s.

The sense of local life here is also strongest, but you have to leave the touristy Yuyuan complex behind. Follow Shanghai Old Street in the direction of the Bund, passing Yuyuan Garden on the left and the new shopping mall on the right.

In front is the heart of the Old Town which, though now filled with tourist shops, has some hidden treasures. One of these is Sipailou Street which is filled with local snacks and meals of every variety imaginable. It's cheaper and more authentic than inside Yuyuan.

Turn down any of the side streets to start an adventure into old Shanghai. Alleys such as Danfeng Road and Mayuan Street offer rich rewards. Though lacking many amenities, people still live here, going about their lives, brushing their teeth, hanging up laundry, chatting and chopping vegetables for dinner.

Warning: Toilets are outdoors and it can be smelly, so don't wear your best shoes. The very narrow streets are best explored on foot.