The city's fans of fine foods and exotic flavors can rejoice as the fragrance of the Far East comes to Shanghai's top hotels. The JW Marriott and JC Mandarin are adding a dash of Southeast Asia to their buffets, offering diners a chance to make culinary discoveries from China's neighbors.

First up is the JW Marriott Shanghai with a special Vietnamese promotion that runs through next Saturday. The Tomorrow Square property's sous chef Juan Martinez has recently returned from an adventure in Vietnam as he sought authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

The industrious Puerto Rican visited locals, trekked back alleys and fished the Mekong, compiling notes and scribbling recipes along the way to re-create the dishes in Shanghai.

"I went to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in search of knowledge about the food, the people and what makes it such a magical place for chefs," said the dynamic young chef.

"When I arrived, I found a tropical city filled with energy and great food. While walking the streets I saw how much pride Vietnamese people put into their cooking and experienced many of their local delicacies, including abundant fresh fruit, live seafood caught straight from the river, fresh meat and most important, fresh local vegetables."

Diners at the buffet will be able to tuck into some sumptuous authentic dishes from the south, such as soft shell crab and taro spring rolls, red mullet fish soup with fresh herbs, and charred elephant fish.

The crab rolls were tasty, while the fish soup was slightly overwhelmed by the added fish sauce, although that would be considered the proper way to prepare the dish. The fish was interesting -- served on a small platform with a slightly spongy skin, the flesh paired beautifully with the rambutan glaze.

Vietnamese fare is also big on salads, and various plates will be passed around by the wait staff. Pick of the lot was the fresh water shrimp and green mango salad -- delightfully tangy and refreshing.

Chef Martinez's odyssey was held in conjunction with leading Vietnam tour operator Buffalo Tours, which planned the itinerary for his seven-day trip. One highlight of his tour was being able to ride around on a motor scooter, as the locals like to do, traveling the city and stopping at restaurants.

He also popped by the Mekong Delta, scoping out the fresh seafood and produce in the process. Here, he learned how to make rice paper, fish sauce and the authentic way of preparing elephant fish.

The Vietnamese fare will replace the Indian selection at the buffet. Lunch is 198 yuan (US$29), while dinner is 268 yuan. Both prices are subject to 15 percent tax.

The JC Mandarin is also having a food promotion through next Saturday. This time, the Nanjing Road property is looking to its brand's roots and presenting Singaporean fare at its popular Tatler coffeehouse.

The hotel has invited executive sous chef Han Seng Fong from Singapore's popular Meritus Mandarin hotel for the event. The "Lion City's" Chatterbox all-day diner is famed for its Hainanese chicken rice, a local favorite, and the version found there is purported to be the best in the island state.

Han has brought his recipe to Shanghai and improved upon the already solid offering. The chicken flesh is moister, while he also brought his own chili sauce for added kick. While it fails to dethrone compatriot Justin Quek for the best version in Shanghai, the fragrant rice and savory soup keep it not too far behind.

Other Singaporean delights will also be on offer, from the ubiquitous satay to the confusingly named meat bone tea. The laksa has also been tweaked slightly, although the lack of proper noodles in this city continues to let the dish down.

The JC Mandarin buffet is 138 yuan for lunch and 228 yuan for dinner, also subject to 15 percent tax.

JW Marriott

Address: 399 Nanjing Rd W.

Tel: 5359-4969

JC Mandarin

Address: 1225 Nanjing Rd W.

Tel: 6279-1888

(Shanghai Daily November 17, 2008)