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A life for a treasure
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Zhou has won personal prizes, but if a reward includes Muqam, he feels that his efforts are recognized and is as proud of it. The most recent of these recognitions is a photograph of two 78-year-old Muqam interpreters – handsome old men still full of vigor, who sing, dance, and play instruments – being embraced by Prime Minister Wen Jiabao on June 9, 2007. While proudly showing the large picture to the imaginary public during the repetition, Zhou said that it was a symbol of the importance that the state attaches to the protection of Muqam – an intangible inheritance of humanity, as recognized by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) in 2005.

His soul "carried by Uyghurs," Zhou has completely integrated into the Uyghur culture. He even ended up resembling the men of this ethnic group and, like most of them, wears the beard. "If not for my southern accent, one would confuse me with them," he said with a certain pride. From 1987, Zhou dedicated two years to listening Muqam "until my ears felt like bursting," remembered the greatest specialist, in order to transcribe the scores correctly. And this was how he came to understand the beauty of Muqam. That UNESCO placed Muqam on its list of treasures which constitute the heritage of humanity does not release Zhou Ji of his responsibility0. "On the contrary, it increases the pressure," he acknowledged. Moreover, he received only 25,000 yuan from the state to defray his research expenses. I asked whether this allowance was annual. He smiled: "No, once, forever!" The lack of funds does not allow him to look further into his research. Fortunately, some friends, as impassioned as he is for Muqam, support him with their own money and services: photographs, recording, etc. In addition, Xinjiang opened about 15 centres for safeguarding Muqam. In Turpan, the local government pays the Muqam "professionals" 400 yuan a month so they can teach the art and put on shows. Dancers, singers and musicians – a hundred people of which the youngest is six years old – are for the majority farmers who take part according to their availability.

What makes Muqam altogether exclusive and difficult is that a large part is written in an archaic language that is no longer spoken. The singers memorize texts that they don't understand. More, the sections are long – from 10 minutes to an hour – and the content is complex; memorizing it is not a vacation. No singer can remember a complete work; each one can sing only three, four, or five parts at most.

What worried Zhou Ji particularly is that the researchers are currently all Han. He wished that his efforts will produce enthusiastic and qualified amateurs who will continue on his footsteps.

When Zhou studied the flute in Shanghai where he attended high school, his teacher gave him a piece to interpret that the student found very beautiful. But he didn't know that it was precisely an extract of Muqam. Once in Xinjiang, the young Zhou attended the troop of songs and dances of Xinjiang, and in 1961, this troop went to Beijing to give a special representation titled Following Mao Zedong Step by Step. Then, in 1964, when he was growing corn with the Uyghur peasants, he heard them singing popular love songs. In the traditional Chinese society, one did not speak of love. Zhou thought that Uyghurs were more open and simple than the Han. All of that prepared him for his future mission, while instilling in him a passion for Muqam and the Uyghur culture that feeds it.

Uyghurs had to work extremely hard to transform the desert into nourishing earth. Overcoming misery and solitude by singing together strengthened them. Muqam is rooted in the hearts of the Uyghurs who love it and respect it.

The repetition was over and a resumption was going to start. Since Zhou Ji's task was not finished he could not give me more time but cordially invited me to go to his place the following day to talk some more. Unfortunately, I had to decline the invitation: a plane was waiting for me; I was leaving for northern Xinjiang.

May the music explode in the peoples' hearts! This is Zhou Ji's wish.

(Source: Foreign Languages Press)

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