Still a rookie player in the international fashion world, what Berlin's annual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week lacks in big-name designers it makes up for in a range of up-and-comers hoping to make their mark.

While New York, Milan, London and Paris are regarded as the most influential shows, industry-watchers say the Berlin event gives young designers a better chance to grab attention with their collections.

"Fashion is an important cultural statement and the more designers who get to show, the better it is for the industry," said fashion expert Merle Ginsberg, who runs the fashion blog Fashionrules.com.

"If great designers from Europe emerge at Berlin Fashion Week, the rest of the world will take it more seriously."

Since premiering in 2007, the event has seen a number of well-known international brands, including Britain's Vivienne Westwood and UGG, which created a worldwide sensation with its wool-lined suede boots in the early 2000s.

This year's highlights include German fashion houses Escada, Hugo Boss and Schumacher. Hugo Boss' more formal Boss Black collection appeared at Berlin Fashion Week's winter show, while Boss Orange, the company's casual wear collection, launched in 1999, will show off its new pieces.

"The heart of any market is the local design industry," said Zach Eichman, a spokesman for the Fashion Week organizers. "Here we have very strong German brands like Schumacher and Hugo Boss who wanted a platform to show their collections to the local market."

Berlin also offers newer designers in Germany the chance to feature their collections, particularly during a time when the financial crisis makes it even harder for designers to break into an already cut throat industry.

Austrian designer Lena Hoschek worked with Vivienne Westwood before launching her self-titled brand in 2005. Her clothes are known for their bold colors and polka-dot prints reminiscent of 1950s pinup girls, and have been worn by pop singer Katy Perry.

Munich-based Marcel Ostertag has sought inspiration from German tradition to create modern pieces. "The cost of participating is much lower and a very good fashion show can be done in Berlin for significantly less money than in many other cities," said Eichman.

(Shanghai Daily July 6, 2009)