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A copper statue of a Phoenix spreading its wings stands at the entrance of the scenic area. Because the phoenix is an auspicious bird in Chinese legends, Phoenix town is said to be a blessed place. [Photo: CRIENGLISH.com/Duan Xuelian]

Other indigenous foods are small shrimp and crabs from the Tuojiang River. The shrimp is dried and sold by weight, while the crabs are fried on a stick with homemade sauces. The crab legs are crispy and spicy, but you might want to be careful about the sharp ones which can cut your mouth (speaking from personal experience).

Of course, you can choose something soft, such as kiwi fruit. Unlike the kiwi fruit imported from New Zealand, locally grown kiwi is less bulky and slimmer. But it tastes sweeter and costs less. Hunan is one of the three major kiwi fruit farming regions in China. Here you have many choices for kiwi-related products from dried fruit to canned ones.

Phoenix is the home of China's Miao ethnic minority group, and their traditions are well preserved. Two of the most famous handicrafts of the Miao people are embroidery and silver ornaments. If you pay attention, you can hear the tinkling of silver hair pieces and dress ornaments worn by young Miao women and girls whenever they pass by. Silver is said to be designed to avert evil, and Miao people cast silver into images from nature such as flowers, birds and fish for good luck.

Miao embroidery is rather easy to distinguish because of its brilliant colors. It is also known for its intricate stitches and particular details. Now instead of selling the embroidered cloth as souvenirs, Miao girls blend the embroidery with practical ornaments such as scarves, cloth shoes and bedcovers. They are quite popular among female tourists.

Along the Tuojiang River, there are rows of stilted wooden houses. Although they look very rustic from the outside, once you set foot in them, you are sure to be amazed by their trendy interior designs.

The stilted houses facing the Tuojiang River are now mostly diners and pubs. Young backpackers spend entire days lounging in the bars, gazing at the river and swarms of tourists shuffling by the window.

There are several building complexes that you encounter when strolling through the alleys. One is the former residence of Shen Congwen, the noted author whose book "Border Town" is how most people have come to know the isolated small town. The other one is the ancestral hall of the Yang family, which was built in 1836 and is representative of the Miao ethnic culture and the architectural achievements of ancient Chinese.

One day is enough for tourists to go sightseeing in the scenic area. But if you want to really dip into the authentic Phoenix town, you will have to stay longer. In time, you'll realize that despite how bustling the town is, the residents still cling to their routines. Housewives wash clothes by the river, small children dart out of dingy meandering alleys, and grandmothers watch over the food while preparing dinner for the family.

Despite the incessant intruding by tourists, Phoenix residents live so peacefully with nature and tradition that while you stand by and observe their way of life, you suddenly want to be one of them.

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