The Great Wall of China is one of Beijing's biggest tourist draws; despite its fame and ubiquity in postcards across the world, it rarely fails to enthrall tourists on first proper sight.

Yet the authorities allocate only certain sections of the wall as fi t for viewing, and few get to visit the unauthorized sections. Fewer still are aware of the existence of at least one part of the Wall that remains in virtually pristine condition, nearly 1,500 years after construction of the legendary fortification began. But there's a good reason for this – it's underwater.

American journalist Steven Schwankert has been diving since age 10 and became a PADI Master Scuba Diver in 2002, following a career that saw dives in Costa Rica, the Philippines, Thailand, Hong Kong and now China. "I came here to work as a journalist," Schwankert admits, before relating how he became sucked back into his passion via the path of casual teaching. "I never really thought I'd teach diving full-time because it just seemed like a fun thing. I planned maybe I'd tutor a couple of friends but later they told me that in Beijing, more and more people want to be involved in diving."

It was through his setting-up of diving school Sinoscuba that Schwankert came to explore some of the lesser-known areas of China's lakes and sea beds – and discovered the submerged Wall under a reservoir.

"The most fascinating piece of diving I ever did in China must be the Great Wall. I mean, you can't got to Egypt and dive around the Pyramids. I managed to find out about it via the internet. It wasn't di. cult to get to – Pan Jiakou in Hebei province, near the east Qing tomb about 4 hours' drive from Beijing. Though there aren't that many, those places around Beijing that are suitable for diving are exceptionally so, says Schwankert, who also reckons that the capital has the best outdoor community in China; one can only imagine his excitement on that fi rst drive out.

"Why do I want to dive the Great Wall? Why do people want to walk on the Great Wall? It's the same answer." There are, however, distinct advantages to visiting the Great Wall in a diving suit over being on foot. To begin with, the water acts as a preservative by preventing the kind of mass tourism that has beset other parts of the Wall. "Unlike the people who walk the Wall, who are actually damaging it every time they do, we as divers never need to actually touch it. I've dived twice there, the last time in July. I found that the water then was much deeper than it was before – 13 metres deep, as opposed to only around 5 or 6 last year." When he first dived, parts of the wall were visible above the surface. Now even the guard tower is completely submerged. "This is good, though: it's better that the wall is deep underwater, as there are lots of boats coming in and out around that area.

Their wave action could potentially damage the brickwork. So, the deeper, the better."

Sadly, this idyllic image of a piece of history, captured in perpetuity for future generations of scuba divers is not quite the case. "Our responsibility is never to touch the Wall and to respect the site as it is"; such ethical rules, however, don't apply to Nature. Schwankert realizes that while the Wall may be safe from humans, over time the lake water will erode and undermine it and it might eventually collapse and disappear. Moreover, in times of drought, the Wall is left as exposed to the elements as much anywhere else; in 2000, for example, the Canadian Global and Mail reported that a portion of the Great Wall not seen in 20 years had suddenly emerged from the drying reservoir.

In the meantime, though, Schwankert looks forward to introducing fortunate diving enthusiasts to the unique pleasures of diving this site. "In the water, you have this freedom to move around. In many ways, we get to see more of the wall because of that; you can't suddenly go o￡ the side if you're walking. In the water, you can even swim through the windows!"

The underwater Wall is not exceptionally long, at about 100 metres. However, it does mean that a day out diving will a￡ ord enough time to see the whole thing properly. Old pictures depict the Wall coming up to the hill and down to the river's edge – but though the distant may not be great, the opportunity to view one of the great wonders of the world in a unique fashion certainly is.

"It's amazing to be swimming where horses once trod. The people who built the Wall never imagined it would one day be underwater. Most people don't even realize there is diving to be had in Beijing, never mind that there's a part of the Wall you can dive. The first time I went with two friends. The next time I visited with a big group."

Those numbers are sure to expand. But Schwankert warns this is no easy day out. This kind of diving is dangerous for those who don't have the right experience or equipment. Thankfully, he has never encountered any great danger on his dives: "I've been careful that my divers can prove to me that they' re qualified for this kind of dive." Fortunately, the linear nature of the Wall does provide some safety measure for orientation. But there is still no particular procedure in place for Chinese diving. Scuba-diving companies have less problems with logistics than they do with permission from officials, who can range from reasonable to difficult.

One reservoir, Xiang Tan, was particularly useful, as its different depths allowed for all kinds of training; it even afforded a good view of the Wall on land. However, he's no longer permitted to use it due to water regulations.

Such regulations can be frustrating, as Schwankert believes they are linked to a general ignorance about what possibilities the underwater world holds. "In China we don't even know what we don't know," he says, paraphrasing Donald Rumsfeld. "That's terrible English," he laughs. "But in the US or Europe we have these legends of ancient ships and treasures, and people make that information public so others can explore further. But only now has China started to look at its underwater history. It knows the land well. Underwater has just been considered lost." He can console himself with the thought that one part at least has been found.

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