72 hours in Thousand Islands Lake
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E-mail Shanghai Daily, September 10, 2013
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Tourists can view more than 300 islands on the lake from the Meifeng Island’s viewing platform. — Xu Lingxia |
Thousand Islands Lake actually has 1,078 islands dotting a lake that covers 567.4 square kilometers.
The artificial lake, also known as Qiandao Lake, is located in Chun’an County in the southwest part of Hangzhou. In 1959, Xin’anjiang Dam, which is used to generate electricity, created a reservoir that turned thousands of mountaintops into islands, forming the present-day Thousand Islands Lake.
Due to the lake and the forest, Thousand Islands Lake boasts a comfortable climate, a favorable natural environment and abundant sightseeing. Nature also has endowed the area with many sources of food that locals turn into exquisite delicacies, treating tourists from home and abroad.
Shanghai Daily planned out a trip of some 72 hours at the lake covering many of its scenic spots and a sampling of its local food. The trip does not include everything to see there, so return trips may be worthwhile, but it will provide you with a good overview of what’s available. 9am-11am
Take a long distance bus at Hangzhou West Bus Station. Buses leave every 40 minutes, from 6am to 6:50pm. From Shanghai, you can take the bullet train at Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station to Hangzhou East Railway Station, then take the No. B4 bus to the station.
11:30am-12:30pm
It’s lunch time when you reach Thousand Islands Lake. Take a taxi to the famous restaurant at Thousand Islands Lake Tower. The restaurant offers traditional local cuisine, including corn cake and rice soup. The corn cake is crisp and mellow, with preserved vegetables topping it. It is a common local dessert served at Thousand Islands Lake.
The rice soup also makes a frequent appearance on natives’ tables. It is said that during years of famine in the past, the soup helped the locals survive. Unlike the thin rice soup of the past, today it contains rice, meat and local vegetables.
Day 1
1pm-5pm
After a brief rest, take a taxi to Shilin Town, which has the largest stone forest in southeast China. The trip takes an hour on zigzag mountain roads through beautiful rural scenery.
The stone forest is karst, which is an area of irregular rock formed by erosion. Many paths between huge stones that make up the stone forest maze are so narrow you have to walk sideways to get through.
The grey stones take on different shapes. Lotus-like stalagmites are shaped like Buddha’s pedestal, and you may also find unusual rocks that look like busts of Beethoven or Karl Marx, rabbits, camels or pigs.
On the top of the stone forest is the Number One Scholar Pavilion — such pavilions often were built in ancient China to honor locals who made the top score in an imperial examination. This one was built to commemorate local businessman Shang Lu of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).
Shang took first place in the exam and entered the royal court as a secretary. He won admiration in his hometown for being upright, decorous, generous and tolerant.
Zhangliang Cave is a spot shrouded in mysterious legends. Zhang Liang was a statesman who contributed greatly to the founding of the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220). It is said that there he encountered the reclusive wise man Huang Shigong, who gave him the legendary military strategy book “The Art of War by Taigong,” also called “Jiang Taigong’s Six Secret Strategic Teachings.”
Leaving the Shilin Scenic Area, there is a type of local bed and breakfast “happy farmhouse” where you can buy homemade Chinese rice wine.
Rice wine has a long tradition in Asia. Thousand Islands Lake people still practice the traditional skill of making rice wine, which is often used in family feasts.
The rice wine usually is sweet and fragrant, with a low alcohol content. Four liters of rice wine costs only 20 yuan (US$3.2). Cooling down the rice wine in a refrigerator makes it taste more refreshing and aromatic.
6:30pm-7:30pm
When night falls, the Cheerday Beer Square, actually an open-air food court, becomes a hangout for tourists and locals. It is situated near the Cheerday Beer factory, which is a popular brand with Zhejiang people.
On hot days, organizers set up a huge sunshade and fans to deal with the sun and temperature. Every day about 300 guests come to eat here, so booking beforehand is recommended.
The food stall operates from April to October, closing at 10pm. From 7pm to 8:30pm, there are wonderful stage performances with singing and dancing.
The food court serves classic Thousand Islands Lake delicacies, like local soft-shell turtle, bamboo shoots and yubie (a kind of local bullfrog). Cheerday beer is free as long as you order food.
Food from the Thousand Islands Lake area is influenced by Anhui Province due to its geographical proximity and tends to be much spicier than most Hangzhou cuisine. Chilies are a common ingredient used in their food.
Chefs braise soft-shell turtle with mushrooms, chilies, preserved pork and soy sauce. Yubie is cooked in a similar way. Pungent turtle and yubie go well with a cool beer.
Thousand Islands Lake bamboo shoots also are famous in China. Local chefs often cook it in a soup with ham and preserved pork.
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