In Mongolia, a search for Genghis Khan’s legacy
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E-mail Shanghai Daily, January 18, 2016
The jubilant romp in the sand worked up quite a big appetite, so we stopped for a traditional Mongolian lunch. After we were seated, a huge bowl of hardy meat and vegetable soup was placed in front of me. Thinking the gigantic broth was to be shared with everyone, I readily pushed it to the middle of the table, so that all could enjoy the steaming scrumptiousness. Much to my surprise, more of the titanic soups emerged from the kitchen — it was then that they told me that the bowl was all mine. It seems that in this vast country of grand places and larger-than-life people, the word "small" doesn't exist.
The undiscovered mystery
One final destination was in order before our adventure in Mongolia was complete. We stopped at Tsonjin Boldog, just east of Ulaanbaatar, where a recently-built colossal figure of Genghis Khan towers a remarkable 40 meters over the surrounding countryside. The world's largest equestrian statue is made of a staggering 250 tons of gleaming stainless steel. The site has myth and intrigue floating in the air, as legend holds that on this very location Genghis found a golden horsewhip, considered by Mongolians to be a very good omen, and that he was inspired by this fortuitous find to become the ruler of all Mongols. The statue rises from the Earth with the same awe Genghis' army did as it thundered across the world. Though the man passed away nearly 800 years ago, he left an extraordinarily indelible mark on the world, as permanent as the global connections he formed, yet as fleeting as the free-loving nomadic lifestyle he led.
Perhaps, then, it is fitting that Genghis' burial site remains undiscovered. It's one of the world's greatest unsolved mysteries. According to legend, every one of the 2,000 people who attended his funeral in 1227 was executed by a total of 800 soldiers, who in turn were killed to ensure his eternal resting site was undisturbed. Folk stories whisper that a river was diverted over his grave to make it impossible to find. Other legends say that trees were planted over the site to conceal it.
Perhaps his final resting place will be found some day — either way, his spirit will forever linger in this vast, astounding land.
Getting there:
Visas for Mongolia are required for Chinese citizens with the exception of Hong Kong residents. Ulaanbaatar is the only international airport. Airlines mostly connect from Beijing, Seoul, Tokyo or Moscow. For a grander adventure, the famous Trans-Mongolian Railway also gets you to Ulaanbaatar, departing from either Beijing or Moscow. While in Mongolia, it is recommended to get a four-wheel drive vehicle due to the rugged, barren terrain.
Where to stay:
Accommodation in Mongolia will be basic hotels or guest houses in the cities and main towns. In rural areas, Ger (traditional felt tents) camps are available. Travel agents can also arrange for you to camp with a nomadic family. Ger tents or village homestays are a wonderful experience, but they are also the only option in between the sparsely situated towns.
Travel tips:
• Avoid the winter months due to the brutal cold, strong wind and impassable roads — the best time to travel is between May and September.
• Although fresh food is abundant in populated areas, it is recommended to carry protein bars and snacks when you travel to more remote areas. Bottled water is mandatory.
• A flashlight is essential. Do also bring sturdy shoes, a rain parka, toilet paper and layered clothing, as it gets pretty hot during the daytime, but nighttime can be very cold.
• Mongolia is predominately Buddhist and also has gone through numerous political changes in the past century. Respect the local culture.
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