The jewel in the crown of Shanghai downtown
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E-mail Shanghai Daily, October 26, 2016
Such rockeries were popular garden fixtures with the ancient Chinese, for whom mountains signified greatness, power and strength.
A pair of iron lions dating back to 1290 guard the corridor of the Yangshan Pavilion. At its end, past a narrow stone pathway lined with wisteria, is the entrance to the Huge Rockery. You can go up the hill or traverse through a cave underneath. It links to the Cuixiu Hall.
Out of the Cuixiu Hall, you walk into a small pavilion built upon a clear stream, where you can stop to watch the fat, well-fed goldfish. The nearby Chinese wisteria tree is more than 300 years old and blossoms with little white flowers in early spring each year.
A double-lane corridor connects the waterfront pavilion and Wanhua Hall, where ancient gingko and magnolia trees frame the front courtyard. The gingko is said to be 400 years old. Gingko trees typically grow in pairs: one male and one female. However, the "wife" of the Wanhua tree died 200 years ago, and a magnolia was planted in its stead. Locals call the tree the "second wife."
A few steps away is the famous Dianchun Hall, once the headquarters of the Small Sword Society, a cabal of rebel soldiers dedicated to the overthrow of the Qing Dynasty.
To the west of Dianchun Hall lies the Dragon Wall. The head of the dragon has a fierce look, and its body covered with curved clay tiles.
Some of the walls in the garden have the undulating shape of dragons, too. There's a sleeping dragon behind the Rockery, a dozing dragon in the inner garden and two dragons playing with a pear on the ancient stage.
The dragon was the exclusive symbol of the emperor in ancient China, and anyone else who dared use the pattern faced beheading.
According to one historical anecdote, someone with a grudge against the original garden owners reported to the emperor that the Pan family was secretly building dragon walls because they coveted the throne.
Fortunately, a friend of Pan's in the royal court heard the complaint and alerted the family that an imperial investigation team would be dispatched. Pan removed the claws of each dragon in his garden, turning them into snakes. The family dodged a bullet.
In days of yore, the two-story Tingtao Tower was a perfect place to enjoy magnificent views of Huangpu River. Tingtao literally means "hear the waves."
The tower displays beautifully carved ancient furniture, such as tea tables, desks and chairs. Most of the Ming-era furniture in the Shanghai Museum originally came from Yuyuan Garden. In addition, the tower today hosts art exhibitions.
Crossing the Sanqu Bridge, a wooden plank span with three twists, delivers you to Yu Lin Long, one of the three most famous rocks in the region south of the Yangtze River. The rock, which features countless holes, is considered the biggest treasure in Yuyuan.
According to the historical accounts, if you place an incense burner at the bottom of the rock, you will see smoke rising out of each hole, and if you pour a jar of water over the top of the rock, a myriad of streams will run out of the holes.
Opposite the rock is the Yuhua Hall, which Pan had specially built so he could better enjoy the view of the rock. The hall served as Pan's study and was outfitted with a writing desk, a table, bookshelves, chairs and chaise lounges.
The ancient stage in garden's southernmost corner is still in use today. Seven meters square, it is decorated with woodcarvings of lions, phoenixes and dragons, all framed in gold.
The roof dome, painted with 22 circles, 20 arcs and 28 golden birds with spreading wings, was designed to provide perfect acoustics. Audience corridors can seat up to 200.
Open: 8:30am-5pm
Address: Anren Street, Huangpu District
Admission: 40 yuan
How to get there: Metro Line 10 Yuyuan Station
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