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The shaping of an international fashion major: Svetlana. Copyright@ S.Zaitseva

My knowledge of Russia is not particularly extensive, to say the least. I would even go as far as to say that "Moscow Mule" are the two words that basically sum it up (and these two have always worked out very well for me). In order to fill up this shameful cultural hole in my knowledge, I got in touch with Svetlana Zaitseva, a Moscow (how fitting) designer, who specializes in corsets but whose collections are positively unrestricted by any boundaries, national or otherwise. After I came across some pictures of her designs that struck my platforms because of the incredibly precise technique and overall dedication that had gone into them, I was crochet hooked and wanted to see more. Sticking with the theme of foreign designers bearing their traditional dress roots in Beijing, I was also very curious to know how svelte Zaitseva's Russian background still expresses itself in her designs now that she's settled down in Beijing.

The stylish red thread

"Like any Russian woman, I followed my husband."

Traditional Russian floral crochet in a new fitted jacket. Copyright@ S. Zaitseva

Why Beijing? This is probably one of the top three off-the-rack-questions you get asked as a foreigner in this city. In Zaitseva's case, she did not arrive here by her fashionable lonesome self, but followed her husband to the city of blinded skies after he accepted a position with a large Russian company. Zaietseva is one of those 羡慕极度恨 (xianmujiduhen, an expression meaning "to be envied" or "hate to love") true fashion majors. Clothing design, and everything else that comes with this beautifully superficial industry, has always been the red thread linking her education. She started off at the Insearch Institute at UTS Sydney, then crossed a deep-blue ocean to La Salle College of Design in Canada before obtaining another Bachelor's degree from Middlesex University in fifty shades of grey Britain. She specializes in underbust corsets (no need to look up this term, it basically speaks for itself) and believe me, they are more Dita Von Teese than Queen Victoria. With a resume like that, it's no wonder Zaitseva's Beijing business took off like the Topol missile which was successfully test-fired in early June.

From Russia, with flowers

"Some of my clients are brave, but some are hesitant when it comes to experimenting."

At the risk of repeating myself, I believe that creators' attempts to incorporate their own native background into their designs is one especially fascinating factor to bear in mind when checking out what's on the clothing hangers in Beijing's foreign design ateliers. The colorful and delicately embroidered flower patterns found on Zaitseva's corsets (as well as on several other items in her collections, as the pictures show) exemplify her retro-roots. The Russian flower folk art displays a different meaning through pattern types, color and types of flower. The painted Matroyshka dolls are another well-known example of this tradition. Even though I'm Von Dutch, I do think that corsets are, even in this day and age, more risqué pieces of clothing if worn on the outside. Nevertheless, if they are executed with the crafty skills of a designer such as Zaitseva, it would be a shame, a waste even, to hide them beneath another layer of fabric. Her customers are women who are trying to achieve harmony in their lives: they have that natural-born feeling for style and wish to incorporate this passion into their everyday lives. Zaitseva's customers may differ in terms of character and temperament, but they are all, in Zaitseva's bespoke words, absolutely fabulous, outspoken individuals.

Firmly woven coutil, lace, silk: fabric serves as an inspiration. Copyright@ S. Zaitseva

 

Moscow tulle

"Inspiration is a very inconsistent thing. It comes from nowhere and goes somewhere else."

Over the past few collections, Zaitseva has found her inspiration in fabrics. She sees fabric as an endless source of different shapes, silhouettes and details, which can lead to unpredictable and surprising results. Like any designer, she incorporates past experience into her future lines as she strives to reach that pinnacle of perfection. In her creations, and I think her corsets testify to this, she follows her own sense of style and taste, molded and formed as they were in a Russian atmosphere surrounded by traditional Russian culture. However, Zaitseva does humbly add that if we are talking high fashion, the West still holds the aces up its exquisitely tailored sleeves. On the topic of China's fashion scene, she admires the use of clearly ethnic elements in high-end design, including different versions of the qipao, embroidery and various uses of silk. Still, there are very few leaders in fashion (such as the Armani Prive elite) and the rest - like China and Russia – are merely followers (think the H&M mob).

A black 'n white underbust corset featuring vivid detailing Copyright@ S. Zaitseva

 Fashion tsarina

"In my opinion, fashion's borders have vanished. There are no clear differences anymore."

When we try to analyze different collections, we can spot a lot of differences, but you need that professional Parson's eye to notice the tiny, yet omnipresent nuances. Generally speaking, nowadays, you can go to any shopping mall that has Zara or Promod stores and come to the conclusion that modern fashion has become international. Zaitseva's favorite design brands, among the prominent ones that is, are the ever-classy Prada and Max Mara. There is a reason Miucca Prada was recently celebrated at the Met's Spring 2012 Costume Institute Exhibition, where Karolina Kurkova eliminated the competition in her out-of-this-world gold creation by Rachel Zoe. From cut and pattern, to the fabric selections and combinations of colors, these two brands always do it for Zaitseva. She does caution, however, that even though their designs may appear very simple, she knows first-hand how much work is concealed by such apparent simplicity. Yet she still sees the West as the prime launch pad for new trends and styles. Nonetheless, recalling the words of überstylist Grace Coddington that fashion is a world of play and make-believe, I believe that bold (design-wise) yet meticulous (execution-wise) designers such as Zaitseva can play their part in bringing change to the international fashion stage.

Fashionistas United:

The thing about corsets and Beijing is: Sometimes you just have to suck it in (or up).

Alexandra Ivanova contributed translation for this story.

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