When Mark Cheung walks from behind of the wash backdrop, the scenes at the fashion show are rapturous once more. The long applause undoubtedly demonstrates that the charismatic designer has caught the imagination of the audience yet again.
The launching of "2006 Xishuangbanna collection" on Monday sent the veteran designer onto another success peak.
It has been the sixth release of Cheung's work themed on Chinese traditional culture, following the "South of Yangtze River Haute Couture Fashion Show" this spring, the "Forbidden City Fashion Show" in 2004, the "Vast Desert Show" in 2003, "Glamour & Grace" show in 2002 and the "Radiant Oriental Dawn" show in 2001.
Pureness, elegance, class and resplendence have always been the designer's trademark. And this time such features still remain strong. Cheung has paid more attention to express vitality and youth.
Cheung disclosed to media that he spent a whole month in Xishuangbanna, in the tropical forest, for inspiration. Recalling the creation of the collection, Cheung smiled: "Like finding myself in an enchanting fairy tale, I am too lost to recount my obsession and fascination with the mystical Xishuangbanna. All I can do is to live and feel the sentiments in passing years with every bit of my heart and every fine nerve."
In his denim shirt, the 44-year-old designer retains his low-key attitude. He is quiet and mild, indulging in his own mind and obviously uneasy with reporters' continuous questions.
"I just want the audience to feel the happiness of nature conveyed by my dresses," he said slowly.
Legendary life
In the China fashion world, Cheung has become a legend.
Graduating from middle school in Guangdong Province in 1979, 18-year-old Cheung became an apprentice in a local crafts factory. His talent was first discovered by five foreign designers who accidentally paid a visit to his company. They were deeply impressed by the delicate and unique embroidery of the shy boy. They then supported him in learning tailoring both at home and abroad.
In 1985 Cheung began to design haute couture for Oleg Cassini, an American label. His design genius was immediately acknowledged. He became the first Chinese designer appearing continuously in various American fashion magazines and the next year, European Times of Paris claimed that Cheung's designs were "among the priciest labels."
Over that period of time, the young Cheung created 500 works a month for Oleg Cassini and He-Ho. But what shocked the American fashion circle is his original idea in replacing French chiffon with 101 crepe georgette and Chinese embroidery with beading in evening dresses, which can reduce 70 percent of the cost while still maintaining elegance and chic.
In 1989 Cheung became the chief designer for Alyce Designs of France and Oscar Times of Hong Kong. Soon after he set out on his own.
He launched his own label "Mark Cheung," in 1991. And now it has expanded to several top brands like Mark Fairwhale, Lazenel and Sunvim & Mark.
Until now he is still the only designer in China who holds haute couture fashion shows every year.
But for the Chinese fashion circle, Cheung is much more than a genius designer. He is the bringer of the rules of international fashion to China.
In the 1990s Mark Cheung launched the "Walking in the Orient" show with the Shanshan group, which was the first big scale fashion show in China.
As the first vice-president of the Chinese Association of Fashion Designers with an authentic background in design, he shocked the industry by rejecting the traditional professional grading of fashion designers. He insisted on evaluating designers by their achievements and market performances instead of the "senior/intermediary/junior" grade in the academic or administrative sense.
Eccentric genius
But in real life Cheung is often described as "a reticent, eccentric, individualistic man who seldom cares what others think."
He has worn two different shoes for a whole day until being spotted at an evening party.
He usually fetches a clock to go on a business trip since he cannot find his watch.
He hates giving speeches, as he always feels nervous in public and his Chinese and English are often criticized as "blurred and ambiguous."
Though a fashion designer, He admits having no interest in other designers' shows and there are only black and blue T-shirts and jeans in his wardrobe.
The only thing that he says "satisfies himself" is his surprising energy, with only three to four hours sleep every day.
(China Daily November 28, 2005)
