Bodga Peak Challenges Real Mountaineers

If you have the energy, the motivation, the interest and, most important of all, the experience to make it up a lofty mountaintop, then Bogda Peak is the place for you.

Vertical limitation

Bogda Peak is the highest peak of the heavily glaciated Bogda Mountain massif, a northeast extension of the Tianshan Mountains in Northwest China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.

The Bogda Mountains, 150 miles long and averaging 13,000 feet in elevation, culminate in a lofty 2-mile ridge topped by several peaks.

Bogda Peak is the highest in the Bogda Ola Range, an eastern sub-range of the great Tianshan range.

Although it is dwarfed by the 7,000-metre-plus-high peaks in the main range of Tianshan, its proximity to the provincial capital Urumqi has made it popular among mountaineers.

Tianchi Lake

The word Bogda, meaning immortal, originates from Mongolian. The beautiful scenes here make one feel it really is a place where immortals dwell.

In the mornings, the peak is surrounded by white clouds and fog. At the foot of the mountain is the famous Tianchi Lake (elevation 1,980 metres). It is nestled in one of the forests, just northwest of the main mountain ridge.

Travellers must pass through the valley to reach Tianchi Lake. The distance totals 102 kilometres, taking about an hour and a half to cross.

The waters of the lake are limpid, the colour of jade, and reflect the surrounding beauty of the peaks and trees. This lake is popular among tourists for its boating, picnicking and horseback riding activities. Visitors also enjoy examples of local ethnic culture, such as an old Taoist monastery that rests humbly on the shore of the lake.

Snow/ice climb

The standard northeast ridge route to Bogda Peak is a basic snow/ice climb.

You need a car to reach the mountain. From Urumqi, drive along the highway to Fukang County. Then turn south and climb the slope.

The Bogda range forms the northern perimeter of the Turpan Depression, a great hollow in the earth's surface 500 feet below sea level.

The valleys on this southern side of the range are hot, dry, very windy and comparatively treeless, while the northern foothills are covered in dense conifer forest.

The base camp is located in the valleys above Tianchi Lake.

In summer, transport to Tianchi Lake can be easily arranged in Urumqi. At the lake you can arrange logistics with the Kazakh horsemen who operate horseback riding services there.

Climbing the mountain is very difficult. The climate is extremely variable. The last time the peak was reached was in 1981, by a Japanese team.

Regular tourists may prefer to enjoy the beautiful scenery at the foot of the climb.

Travel tips

If you are an experienced climber, you should get permission from the local government first.

Climbers are required to register with the China Xinjiang Mountaineering Association in Urumqi at 1 Renmin Road (Fax: 991-2818-365). There is a fee of $30 per person, according to Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme.

(China Daily January 31, 2002 )