Qiandongnan (Southeast Guizhou), is the largest autonomous prefecture in China. It's also where most of the Miao and Dong people live.

This is a little-visited place, unfamiliar to many travelers and tourists. But that doesn't mean it is not an attractive destination. Despite its somewhat derogatory reputation as a place where "there are no three days without rain, no three coins in a pocket and no three kilometers without a mountain," for the more intrepid traveler, this is a really fascinating spot.

Almost 40 percent of the population here belongs to one of the numerous minority groups who toil the harsh terrain.

The Miao and Dong largely inhabit the land in the east, the Boyei (related to the Thai people) in the hot south, and the Yi and Hui live in the hills in the west of the province.

With a forest coverage of over 45 percent, the scenery across Qiandongnan is spectacular, ranging from limestone peaks to green mountains and gargantuan waterfalls.

Guizhou has one of the highest rainfalls in the entire country. You can find thousands of rivers flowing along any trip you take in the province.

In Qiandongnan, there are around 2,900 rivers of various dimensions. All of them are clean and few ever run low.

Aside from the natural scenery, special ethnic culture and ancient architecture are major attractions here. The Miao and Dong people's costume maintains the style of the Tang (618-907), Song (960-1279), Ming (1368-1644) dynasties.

The architecture is different from what you find anywhere else. It even differs markedly from that found in Lijiang Ancient Town in neighboring Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region.

Xijiang Miao village, the biggest Miao village in China, has 1000 households. In Leishan county, 75 km from Kaili, surrounded by green hills and blue waters, rows upon rows of pile dwellings stand in the bamboo forests on the mountain slope.

Xijiang Thousand Family Village is the largest in the province. All the houses here, without exception, are made from maple wood. The typical Dong style bridges, spanning numerous rivers and valleys, should also not be missed.

It's also famous for its New Rice Tasting Festival and Miao New Year celebration.

Worth checking out too is its silversmith craftsmanship and harvest celebration.

The local silversmiths boast unique craftsmanship for silver ornament-making. All the silver ornaments that a Miao girl puts on weigh about nine kilograms. The harvest celebration is held in memory of villagers' ancestors and in celebrating their autumn harvest. The most important part of the celebration is to hold a memorial ceremony for ancestors. That is accompanied by the happy Lusheng pipe and dance ceremony.

Zhaoxing Dong Village is the bigger village in the southern Ding dialect region. The village is divided into five parts according to family groups. Each has one roofed bridge and one drum tower.

The tallest tower is 25 meters high without any iron nail or rivet. Wooden tenons and mortises connect the tower. Inside the tower are carved figures of people, animals and flowers full of the Dong's color.

The drum tower is a place where the Dong people gather together for important decisions, singing and entertainment.

Notes: Exotic and intriguing, Qiandongnan is a great area to be explored on foot and by basic transport.

Travelers should however, be aware of the numerous customs that the Minority groups here abide by and try to adjust to their way of life.

What's more, this is one of the most poverty-stricken areas in China. Standards of living here are low and the way of life is very basic.

Getting there and away:

There are daily flights from Beijing and Shanghai to Guiyang, the capital city of the Province. From Shanghai, the flight costs 1280 yuan (US$160) (approximately 2.5 hours) and from Beijing, 1380 yuan (US$165) (2-3 hours) one way for economy class.

When getting to Guiyang, please find the bus routes to Xijiang, Zhaoqing, Taijiang or Kaili.

(Beijing Weekend December 26, 2003)