Dragons in heaven, donkeys on earth: Lishi Hutong
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No. 129: filming location for Dazhaimen
Halfway down the hutong one can find three grand gates. In front of the main gate, two majestic stone lions raise their heads proudly. The bounding walls and eaves of this dignified building are delicately carved, the gates bright red with lion head handles. A conspicuous plate hangs on the door: "No visitors allowed". This is no surprise, as this is the film location for a TV series called Dazhaimen (The Grand Mansion Gate).
The guard who answered the bell said that this has always been a private mansion and its owner is an estate agent. This also answers the question of why in this small, disorderly hutong there are so many fine cars.
Hutong restaurants
You can no longer sell or slaughter livestock in the heart of Beijing as you could during the Ming and Qing Dynasties (ah, the good old days), but the customary use of Lishi Hutong has been preserved in its cuisine. A snack called lürouhuoshao (Baked Wheat Cake Stuffed with Minced Donkey Meat) is the big-ticket item in hutong restaurants like Hongyunxiaoguan and Tiancihuihong.
"Our food is low-cost, an old favorite, but it's good quality," waiter Yan Xiliang said proudly. "Every noon and night people queue up to buy our snack."
Back at Liu Yong's house, part of his residence has become a restaurant selling Shandong-style beef offal. Their main dishes involve hotpot and beefsteak with brown sauce. "We also specialize in pork skin jelly and duck head. Many customers like them," waitress Li Jia explained. Not far from this Shandong restaurant, there is another called Qingtangfu, opened by a man from Shaanxi, featuring over 20 types of wheat-based dishes. There's also a western-style restaurant with drinks and pizza, bearing the hip name Xiangmao.com.
It's hard not to feel a bit heavy-hearted after roaming Lishi Hutong. In front of Liu Yong's residence, when asked if it was in fact the home of the hunchback, a man said that could not be possible, for how could someone so famous live in such a humble dwelling? Compared to the estate agent's home, most houses were shabby and messy. It all leaves one to wonder, is there a single official today who is willing to live in a humble house like Liu Yong?
How to get there: Take subway Line 5 or bus numbers 106, 116, 108, 109, 101, 110, 111, 112, 420, 684, 685, 810 or 846 and get off at Dongsi Station.
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