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New Realities at the Lost Horizon

Many remember British author James Hilton's famous 1933 novel, Lost Horizon, where he describes the discovery of Shangri-la.

Shangri-la, in the Zhongdian dialect of the Tibetan language, means "the world on the other side" or "Eden on earth."

In September 1997, after studies conducted by a team of anthropologists and ethnologists, Diqing Prefecture was officially proclaimed the "Shangri-la" of James Hilton fame.

Shangri-la has been described as "a land of purity and mystery," guarded by the three roaring rivers of Jinsha (a section of the upper reaches of Yangtze River), Lancang (Mekong) and Nu (or the Salween, which flows through Myanmar).

Its vast prairie is said to fully mirror the marvels of nature during the four seasons, protected and secluded by the impressive snow-capped ranges that surround it.

Within lies a land of religious mystery and racial harmony, in perfect accord with nature which dominates this Eden.

With a group of nine other Singaporeans, I flew to Kunming and then traveled another 700 kilometers up north through Dali and Lijiang to reach Shangri-la.

After two exquisite nights in Lijiang, a UNESCO World Heritage city, we set out to learn about this mysterious land.

The real picture

Shangri-la, "the city of sun and moon in my heart," is indeed a land of limpid lakes and ponds, snow-capped mountains of the Haba and Jade Dragon ranges, and tranquil villages, which stand in contrast to imposing Tibetan monasteries like the Gedung Songzhanglin Monastery, also known as the "second Potala".

But some would have been disappointed with what we saw on arriving here: the prairies were yellow because of winter and the vast Napa Lake was dry.

Over the nine days I was here I attempted a sociological study of this mysterious land.

I probably found my own Shangri-la in the harmony of man and Nature and of men amongst themselves in this "far-begotten land."

I saw the beautiful terraced fields of Zhongdian and its rich orange laterite soil as sculptured landscapes of an agricultural Eden, in perfect harmony with nature.

Vegetables and fruits seemed abundant, as yaks, pigs and goats roamed amidst sturdy Tibetan habitations that dot the countryside; it was a land of plenty as nature seemed to have provided adequately.

The vegetables that graced our table each day were fresh and juicy; the meat seemed rich and good though fish was logically not the staple.

I also found it fascinating how religion and culture co-exist in harmony here.

Although Tibetan Buddhism or Lamaism predominates, it appears to be a land of tolerance and racial harmony, where many minorities live together, upholding their rich indigenous customs and traditions.

Lamaism, Big and Small Wheel Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism dot the religious landscape; catholic churches and Muslim mosques are also to be found in greater Yunnan.

For generations, more than 10 ethnic minority groups, comprising Tibetans, Naxi, Lisu, Yi and Bai have co-existed peacefully with the Hans in Shangri-La, reflecting the supreme harmony between humans and between humans and the gods, which purportedly live here.

Of the 55 ethnic minority groups in China, 25 of them live in Yunnan Province along with the majority Han people.

Philosophically, it is the right balance that reigns in Shangri-la!

But there are shortcomings. Though market economy and entrepreneurship have grown impressively with instant digital photo services available in Napa Lake and the Spruce Plateau above the White River, poverty eradication and social distribution have a long way to go in this region.

A further consolidation of religion in Shangri-la will also "temperate" the current "wealth chase," like in other parts of China.

An 11-year-old shepherd boy, when asked, said he did not attend school as he had to look after his flock and take tourists on horse rides in the dry Napa Lake. Compulsory education will bring greater social justice and distribution to this land.

Because of recent oil price hikes and distribution inadequacies, there was an acute shortage of diesel along our tourist route. Tour guides and locals complained about inflation and rising prices of imported goods, as globalization brings in outside influences.

The clean and pure environment must also be preserved at all costs!

As we all go in search of our own Shangri-la, I cherish fond memories of my trip to Zhongdian.

I may have indeed found "my Eden of balance and harmony," or in James Hilton's words, the "world on the other side."

But it is by facing challenges squarely that Shangri-la, like other parts of China, can grow, stabilize and prosper in a sustainable manner.

(China Daily February 3, 2006)

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