Newly-opened Taiwanese restaurant Belaggio is the epitome of good taste -- falling water, shrubbery and wooden features combining to create a pleasant, serene setting.

The restaurant is spacious, clean and well lit, and the food is delicious, varied and inexpensive. Papaya and milk at Y22 and the Pearl Teas (Y19/YY25) are authentic offerings -- and Mango, Peanut and Coffee smoothies (Y22) set an excellent tone for the meal to come.

The Hainan Chicken with spicy, terriyaki and ginger sauces (Y33) is simply wonderful, as are the Shredded Shrimp Wrapped in Lettuce (Y49) and the Sticky Rice in Bamboo (Y15). The Chinese Hamburger (Y15) is nothing if not fabulous, while a dessert of Taiwanese ice at Y25 is a mound to be shared amongst many.

There is little to find fault with in Belaggio, apart from, perhaps, a pitiful wine selection and overzealous service. Great Wall (Y88) is the only wine on offer, and staff constantly buzzing around your table can be bothersome.

It is certainly worth a visit though, and due to its rising popularity it's advisable to book a table in advance. -MH

Food: ****

Décor: ****

Service: ***

Price: Y150 for two

(City Weekend January 3, 2003)