In a city which changes as fast as Beijing, they're kept pretty busy.

Almost everyone I have met here has a story to tell of how they set out to revisit a great new bar they'd just found - only to discover it had been demolished and replaced by something else.

The process sometimes happens within a matter of weeks and it comes as a genuine shock to discover that fantastic find has vanished without trace, never to return.

In the frantic search for the new, it's sometimes easy to overlook the city's longstanding treasures.

The thought hit home after a chance weekend visit to the Drum Tower.

It occurred to me that in 18 months in the city I had never once taken the time to check out a building which has been dubbed"Beijing's Big Ben."

The friendly ticket office assistant (an attribute very much welcomed by us often clueless laowai) told us the drumming would begin at 2 pm.

What drumming? Originally drums inside the tower were beaten to mark the hours of the day. The tradition dates back to 1420 when the tower was built.

If you want a heart-starter on a cold day, leave it until 1.59 pm to visit. You think you've got enough time to make it to the top of the tower - until you see the ultra-steep single flight of stairs that get you there...

We could hear the drums echoing down the dark stairway as we hit the stairs running. The mystical beat kept us moving until we arrived panting harder than a first-time marathon runner.

Watching three traditionally costumed drummers pounding out a predetermined beat kept the heart racing. It's a fantastic sight and sound. These are seriously big drums.

The tower itself is well worth a wander. The light filters in to create a warm, welcoming atmosphere and interpretive panels give the lowdown on history and the concept of time and the calendar.

Better still is the view from outside. On a clear day you'll be rewarded with a glorious 360 degree panorama which offers a fascinating cross-section of Beijing past and present.

Surrounded by hutong and facing the equally grand Bell Tower, the Drum Tower is a marvellous vantage point to watch life go by from a bird's-eye view.

The aerial view starts with the sight of brave/foolhardy cyclists weaving in and out of taxis and buses in the now bustling Houhai area. A few hundred yards away you'll see skaters of various skill levels on frozen Shichahai and further in the distance Beihai and Jingshan Parks.

If you're lucky, this fresh sight of countless of the city's cultural treasures will be accompanied by the atmospherics strains of the erhu, played by a local young man passing the time of day on the balcony. It's all well worth the 20 yuan (US$2.40) entry fee.

So next time you're lost up a hutong seeking out Houhai's hip new bar, unable to see the wood for the trees, lift your eyes and make the acquaintance of one of the city's oldest residents. In a fast-changing city, she's seen it all.

(Beijing Review January 13, 2003)