But that's just what the prestigious Beijing Hotel at the south end of the famous Wangfujing is doing.

The hotel is the oldest in Beijing and has stood in its prime location for more than 100 years.

Only relatively recently has it stepped up efforts to raise its profile in an increasingly competitive field.

For long its name has been synonymous with catering to top-level government events and functions.

The German Food Festival - which runs until the end of this month - heralds a move towards more Western food showcases this year.

A self-service set-up allows diners to sample a wide variety of food.

Many immediately associate Germany with sausages and that fact is reflected here. There are several types cooked in many different ways.

One of the most striking dishes however is an elbow of pork and sausage floating in lightly salted water.

Just looking at the dish will set of alarm bells for anyone concerned about fat.

An accompanying sauce based of vinegar is put next to the dish. It transforms the dish into a surprisingly palatable affair.

For people wanting more variety, there's plenty to choose apart from the German staples. The prawn offers a lighter alternative. You can either sample boiled prawn with oyster, salmon and Japanese sushi or take it fresh to the chef who will cook it to order.

A major advantage of attending a food festival here is the opportunity to wander the bustling adjacent commercial street before or after, as well as paying a visit to nearby Tian'anmen Square.

Time: 11 am-2 pm for lunch and 5-8 pm for supper until January 31

Price: 125 yuan (US$15.2) for lunch and 155 yuan (US$18.9) for supper plus 15% surcharge

Tel: 6513-7766 ext 1377

(Beijing Weekend January 21, 2003)