According to the legend, this was the place where Pu Xian Buddha resided.

A commemoration of Puxian Buddha is held each March and attracts many pilgrims.

Although the mountain is a major pilgrimage site, and becoming increasingly popular with tourists, it is possible to escape the crowds and head off on some of the smaller trails, exploring at your own pace. This is a wonderfully atmospheric area, and the impressive views, scenery mixed with the sight of monks and the sound of bells, make for one of China's more interesting areas to explore and discover.

Situated in southwest Sichuan, 7 kilometers from the city of Emeishan and 37 kilometers from the city of Leshan, the mountain has been a popular place of pilgrimage for the past 1,800 years. Legend has it that Bodhisattca Samantabhadra preached here and pictures of the elephant that supposedly carried him up the mountain are found in many of the shrines dotted about the hillside.

There were once 150 temples and monasteries on the mountains. Today, only 30 remain and only 20 of these are active.

"Emei" means "girl's eyebrows," and from far, the two mountain-tops of Emei do look like eyebrows.

The scenery on the mountain is beautiful, with thousands of interesting rock formations. Mount Emei is 3,098 meters in height. The top of the mountain often extends above the clouds. From there, on a clear day, the weary but exhilarated visitor can see for miles. Standing above a sea of "cloud" is a truly unforgettable experience.

Mount Emei has a lot of precipitation all year round. The entire place is well forested. There are about 3,500 species of plants, more than 100 of which are found exclusively on Mount Emei.

Of more than 2,000 species of animal life, the Emei monkeys are the most intriguing and popular among visitors.

While attracting pilgrims visiting for spiritual reasons, Emei is equally famous for its spectacular scenery. The temperature here is ideal for lush vegetation and some stunning and rare plants and wildlife. The forested slopes, hot springs and wonderful views can be explored for days. It is best to allow at least a couple of days to explore the low slopes of the mountain and perhaps an additional day to make it to the peak at Wanfoding (Ten-thousand-Buddha Peak).

Golden peak temple (Jindingsi) is usually a must visit for visitors. Situated about 20 metres below the summit, this building has a 65-metre long bronze hall and a location which offers some of the best views of the entire mountains. A spectacular weather phenomenon occurs at the peak every so often, known locally as the "Buddha's glow." When the sun shines in a certain direction, an observer shadow is cast onto the cliffs and surrounded with a "glow" of rainbow colors. This incredible sight can be seen from an airplane too and only occurs in three places in the world.

Buddhists see this as a special sign that they have been chosen. Indeed there have been numerous suicides resulting from Buddhists leaping for nirvana.

Chains have now been constructed around the edge of the cliffs in an attempt to put a stop to this. Spring and winter is the best season to experience this phenomenon as the weather conditions are most suitable during this time. You can stay the night in the temple and then join the crowds at dawn to watch the sunrise.

The true summit of the mountain is a further hour away at Wanfoding, the Ten Thousand Buddha Summit.

Price: 80 yuan (US$9.8) for entrance ticket and 60 yuan (US$7.2) for bus to the mountain for each person.

How to get Mount Emei: Train K117 from Beijing West Railway Station gets to Chengdu. It takes 24 hours and costs 380 yuan (US$40) for a sleeping berth. Lots of tour bus routes are available between Chengdu and Mount Emei. The three-hour trip bus trip from Chengdu costs upwards10 yuan (US$1.2) per person.

To save time, go by air. It takes 90 minutes from Beijing. It's possible to get there for around 600 yuan (US$72) with a 40 per cent discount.

(Beijing Weekend March 29, 2003)