The huge clear water lake, the pine trees covering the hillsides and the snow-capped mountains in the background make this a spectacular sight - reminiscent of Switzerland or the Rocky mountains but somehow with more vibrancy and colour.

One of the most pleasant aspects about exploring here is just being able to wander the lake and mountains at your own pace. This is a vast area and, despite the crowds, it is easy to lose yourself and there are no restrictions about where you can go.

From June to October is the best period for travellers. But if you want to enjoy a special snow and ice mountain, go there now.

You must spend at least a day there, and staying the night in the yurts or at the more upmarket Shuixin Hotel is good fun. The evening and early morning there are comparatively peaceful. There are numerous small restaurants along the western shore serving good simple dishes for about 20 yuan (US$2.4) to 30 yuan (US$3.6).

How to get there: Go to Urumqi first by air (1,400 yuan/US$168). It saves time. By train it takes three days from Beijing to Urumqi.

Buses between Urumuqi and the pond are many. The trip takes between 90 minutes and four hours, depending on the type of transport you take. Minibuses are the most efficient. The fee is usually 25 yuan (US$3).

（Beijing Weekend January 14, 2003）