Editor's note: Traditional Li textile techniques, which encompass spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidering, represent a vital aspect of the cultural heritage of the Li ethnic group, an indigenous community in China's Hainan province. These techniques have been passed down through generations, embodying the deep connection between the Li people, their environment, and their ancestral knowledge.
Traditional Li textile techniques were inscribed on UNESCO's List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2009, and later in 2024, the techniques were added to UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This recognition acknowledges the exceptional craftsmanship, cultural significance and the rich history embedded in the production of these textiles.
The Li people's textile traditions date back over 3,000 years. The Li are known for their skill in hand-weaving and dyeing, creating textiles that serve both functional and ceremonial purposes. Historically, the textiles were produced by the women of the community, who were responsible for all aspects of textile creation, from spinning and dyeing fibers to weaving and intricate embroidery.
Spinning involves the careful preparation of plant fibers, particularly those from cotton, ramie and hemp, which are harvested and then processed by hand. The fibers are spun into threads using a traditional spinning wheel, with each step requiring considerable dexterity and patience. The threads are then dyed, often using natural dyes derived from plants, such as indigo, safflower and other indigenous flora, contributing to a vibrant color palette that is characteristic of Li textiles.
Weaving is perhaps the most intricate aspect of the Li textile tradition. The Li people use traditional looms to create a wide variety of fabrics, from simple plain weaves to complex patterns that are often symbolic. The weaving process is highly technical, requiring both skill and artistry, as intricate motifs and designs are incorporated into the fabric. The weavers create textiles not just for everyday use, but also for special occasions, rituals and festivals.
Embroidery is a distinctive feature of Li textiles, with highly detailed patterns embroidered onto the fabric by hand. These embroidered designs are often symbolic, representing elements of nature, such as mountains, rivers, animals and plants, and they carry cultural meanings related to the Li people's worldview, spirituality and traditions. The embroidery is applied using specific stitching techniques, with different regions of the Li community known for their unique styles and motifs.
Li textiles are not only prized for their beauty but also for their social significance. The textiles play a key role in rituals and ceremonies, such as weddings, funerals and other cultural events. They are also an important marker of social status and are used to convey personal identity, with the designs often reflecting the wearer's community, family and age group.
Today, the traditional Li textile techniques face significant challenges. Rapid modernization, changing lifestyles, and the impact of globalized textile production have led to a decline in the number of practitioners. Many young people, particularly in urban areas, are less inclined to learn these techniques, opting instead for more modern methods of production. Furthermore, the demand for mass-produced textiles has diminished the value of handmade, traditional textiles.
However, there have been concerted efforts to revitalize these traditions. Local governments, cultural organizations and artisans are working to preserve and promote Li textile techniques through education, exhibitions and the establishment of cultural centers dedicated to traditional crafts. In some communities, women continue to practice these skills, and their work is highly valued both locally and nationally. Additionally, the rise of cultural tourism has increased interest in Li textiles, as visitors seek authentic, handcrafted products.
In response to the challenges faced by traditional textile practices, initiatives have been launched to document and preserve the techniques, including the creation of training programs for younger generations and the establishment of cooperatives to support local artisans. These efforts aim not only to safeguard the cultural heritage of the Li people but also to ensure that these techniques can be passed down and appreciated by future generations.
UNESCO's recognition of traditional Li textile techniques emphasized their exceptional cultural value and their role in fostering community identity and social cohesion. UNESCO highlighted the deep connection between the Li people and their natural environment, noting that the textiles reflect the community's sustainable practices, reliance on natural resources, and spiritual beliefs. The organization also recognized the significant role that these textiles play in the social fabric of the Li community, serving both as functional items and as symbols of cultural heritage.
In its comments, UNESCO stressed the importance of safeguarding these traditions against the pressures of modernization. The organization called for continued support for the transmission of these skills to younger generations and emphasized the need for local communities, cultural institutions and governments to collaborate in preserving these invaluable techniques. UNESCO's designation also aimed to raise global awareness of the significance of Li textiles and to foster international appreciation for this unique cultural practice, helping ensure that the Li people's artistic traditions continue to thrive in the 21st century.
Discover more treasures from China on UNESCO's ICH list:
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• 2022: Traditional tea processing
• 2020: Wangchuan ceremony, taijiquan
• 2018: Lum medicinal bathing of Sowa Rigpa
• 2016: Twenty-four solar terms
• 2013: Abacus-based Zhusuan
• 2012: Training plan for Fujian puppetry performers
• 2011: Shadow puppetry, Yimakan storytelling
• 2010: Peking opera, acupuncture and moxibustion, wooden movable-type printing, watertight-bulkhead technology of Chinese junks, Meshrep
• 2009: Yueju opera, Xi'an wind and percussion ensemble, traditional handicrafts of making Xuan paper, traditional firing techniques of Longquan celadon, Tibetan opera, sericulture and silk craftsmanship, Regong arts, Nanyin, Khoomei, Mazu belief and customs, Dragon Boat Festival, Manas, Craftsmanship of Nanjing Yunjin brocade, Xinjiang Uygur Muqam art, Hua'er, China engraved block printing technique, Chinese traditional architectural craftsmanship for timber-framed structures, Chinese paper-cut, Chinese calligraphy, Chinese seal engraving, Grand song of Dong ethnic group
• 2008: Kunqu opera, Guqin, Urtiin Duu
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